Olive
Pomace Oil refers to the refined product that occurs
when additional oil is extracted from olive pomace
with the aid of solvents. This oil has no specific
taste, aroma or color. To create a consumer oil through
this process the oil must be mixed with Extra Virgin
Olive Oil, with proportions determined by the manufacturer.
This product commands a lower price than other oils
as the starting material has less value than olives
used for pressing oil. The term Olive Pomace Oil replaces
the former assignation, Olive Residue Oil, a term
that was never actually used in the US.
CALIFORNLA,
THE PERFECT LOCALE
It is the fresh sprig of garnish on
a traditional and grand world plate. With Spain claiming
30% of worldwide olive oil production, Italy 24%,
Greece 18%, Turkey and Tunisia tied at 7%, the United
States presses in at a mere .06%. Northern California,
which has climatic conditions most resembling the
temperate, dry conditions of the Mediterranean and
an aesthetic alignment with the lifestyle of Tuscany
and Umbria, is the perfect locale for a romantic synergy
of agriculture and passion emerging from the leafy
shade of the wine industry.
THE
COUNCILS, THEIR CLASSIFICATIONS
There are over 800 million olive trees
in the world, cultivated in areas as disparate as
Australia, Japan, and California, but 98% of world
production occurs in countries which comprise the
International Olive oil Council (IOOC) which operates
under a United Nations charter and sets forth uniform
standards of quality for olive oil. Members include
Algeria, Cyprus, Egypt, Belgium, Denmark, France,
Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands,
Portugal, Spain, Britain, Israel, Morocco, Tunisia,
Turkey and Yugoslavia.
The
California Olive Oil Council (COOC), was founded in
1992 to exchange information about cultivating olives
and making olive oil in California. With membership
growing 147% between 1997 and 98, and an additional
35% between 1998 and 1999 it has become the advocacy
voice of the California Olive culture. Thirty-three
oils received the COOC seal of approval between 98
and 99. McEvoy Ranch, Wente Estate Oil and Longmeadow
Ranch Oils are the only members to receive the coveted
Certified Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil seal. Organic
certification involves a rigorous process in three
parts; a chemical analysis of the acidity content
of the oil, an affidavit signed verifying that the
source olives are 100% California-grown, and review
by a mined panel of tasters supervised by COOC President,
Roberto Zecca and Paul Vossen with methods developed
by master taster Juan Ramon Izquierdo of Spain's Agricultural
Ministry. This year the COOC sponsored the First Annual
Olive Oils of America Competition. Its motto, "Eliminate
Your Dependency on Foreign Oil. The New Standard is
Here."
CONTEMPORARY
ISSUES
As principle advocate for California
growers and olive oil producers the COOC and its members
have addressed the issue of truth in advertising.
Labels communicate. A visual aesthetic comes across
first through color, form and font. The truly important
information hits next, quality, source, and quantity.
But of paramount concern is the secure knowledge that
integrity and consistency inform the labeling system
itself, Extra Virgin California Olive Oil must be
just that. 100% Californian. The designation, Extra
Virgin is stipulated by international standards. While
the COOC promotes Extra Virgin Oil the labeling issue
is not as focused on product purity as on accurate
communication to the consumer. As California olive
oils are recognized and rewarded in the national and
international market place, it is to everyone's advantage
to reach consensus on labeling, and then celebrate
mutual success.
THE
PRODUCERS: ROMANCING THE BUSINESS
VG Buck
Sometimes geography manifests destiny.
The hillsides of Sonoma and Napa are laced with olive
trees, some over a hundred years old, planted by immigrant
Italian farmers with the intention of supplying their
own kitchens. For VG Buck's neighbor Rosemary Wells,
owner of a bed and breakfast in Sonoma, the lofty
old olive trees growing on Buck's adjoining property
sparked a new dream.
By
late 1994, Buck and family were handpicking their
250 trees, bottling olive oil and selling it at a
local cafe. Envisioning a fine olive oil industry,
Buck and other interested mini-producers like Deborah
Rogers, brought their products to the first BR Cohn
Annual Olive Oil Festival. Cohn, the former Doobie
Brothers' manager turned vintner, was producing olive
oil from hundred year old French olive trees planted
on his Sonoma property. Inspired by a trip to French
olive oil mills, Rodgers and Buck merged into the
California Extra Virgin Olive Oil Label. When Buck's
trees failed to provide enough oil an Italian source
was found, and with it the concept of California-Mediterranean
Extra Virgin Blend.
"What
we really wanted to be was a Mediterranean food company,
because of the diet. We wanted to re-create a California
or domestic version of the Mediterranean diet."
explained Buck. "Everybody and his brother wanted
to be in the California oil business." He continued,
"but they needed trees."
In
1999, a merger with Calio Groves provided 100 acres
of mission and Manzanillo olive trees in Oroville.
The new company also included former California Olive
Oil council President Ken Stutz and his Stutz Olive
Oil of Berkeley as well as two small Napa boutique
companies, Olio Santo and French Laundry chef, Thomas
Keller's inspirations.
Most recently, Calio Groves has opened spacious corporate
headquarters in Fairfield, including the Calio Groves
Tasting Room, featuring an olive oil tasting bar for
product sampling, California and European olive bar,
and a unique olive-theme gift shop.