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THE FORAGER
chef tested hard to find and unusual products

RANCHERS / GROWERS / FARMERS

Olive Pomace Oil refers to the refined product that occurs when additional oil is extracted from olive pomace with the aid of solvents. This oil has no specific taste, aroma or color. To create a consumer oil through this process the oil must be mixed with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, with proportions determined by the manufacturer. This product commands a lower price than other oils as the starting material has less value than olives used for pressing oil. The term Olive Pomace Oil replaces the former assignation, Olive Residue Oil, a term that was never actually used in the US.

CALIFORNLA, THE PERFECT LOCALE
It is the fresh sprig of garnish on a traditional and grand world plate. With Spain claiming 30% of worldwide olive oil production, Italy 24%, Greece 18%, Turkey and Tunisia tied at 7%, the United States presses in at a mere .06%. Northern California, which has climatic conditions most resembling the temperate, dry conditions of the Mediterranean and an aesthetic alignment with the lifestyle of Tuscany and Umbria, is the perfect locale for a romantic synergy of agriculture and passion emerging from the leafy shade of the wine industry.

THE COUNCILS, THEIR CLASSIFICATIONS
There are over 800 million olive trees in the world, cultivated in areas as disparate as Australia, Japan, and California, but 98% of world production occurs in countries which comprise the International Olive oil Council (IOOC) which operates under a United Nations charter and sets forth uniform standards of quality for olive oil. Members include Algeria, Cyprus, Egypt, Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, Britain, Israel, Morocco, Tunisia, Turkey and Yugoslavia.

The California Olive Oil Council (COOC), was founded in 1992 to exchange information about cultivating olives and making olive oil in California. With membership growing 147% between 1997 and 98, and an additional 35% between 1998 and 1999 it has become the advocacy voice of the California Olive culture. Thirty-three oils received the COOC seal of approval between 98 and 99. McEvoy Ranch, Wente Estate Oil and Longmeadow Ranch Oils are the only members to receive the coveted Certified Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil seal. Organic certification involves a rigorous process in three parts; a chemical analysis of the acidity content of the oil, an affidavit signed verifying that the source olives are 100% California-grown, and review by a mined panel of tasters supervised by COOC President, Roberto Zecca and Paul Vossen with methods developed by master taster Juan Ramon Izquierdo of Spain's Agricultural Ministry. This year the COOC sponsored the First Annual Olive Oils of America Competition. Its motto, "Eliminate Your Dependency on Foreign Oil. The New Standard is Here."

CONTEMPORARY ISSUES
As principle advocate for California growers and olive oil producers the COOC and its members have addressed the issue of truth in advertising. Labels communicate. A visual aesthetic comes across first through color, form and font. The truly important information hits next, quality, source, and quantity. But of paramount concern is the secure knowledge that integrity and consistency inform the labeling system itself, Extra Virgin California Olive Oil must be just that. 100% Californian. The designation, Extra Virgin is stipulated by international standards. While the COOC promotes Extra Virgin Oil the labeling issue is not as focused on product purity as on accurate communication to the consumer. As California olive oils are recognized and rewarded in the national and international market place, it is to everyone's advantage to reach consensus on labeling, and then celebrate mutual success.

THE PRODUCERS: ROMANCING THE BUSINESS
VG Buck
Sometimes geography manifests destiny. The hillsides of Sonoma and Napa are laced with olive trees, some over a hundred years old, planted by immigrant Italian farmers with the intention of supplying their own kitchens. For VG Buck's neighbor Rosemary Wells, owner of a bed and breakfast in Sonoma, the lofty old olive trees growing on Buck's adjoining property sparked a new dream.

By late 1994, Buck and family were handpicking their 250 trees, bottling olive oil and selling it at a local cafe. Envisioning a fine olive oil industry, Buck and other interested mini-producers like Deborah Rogers, brought their products to the first BR Cohn Annual Olive Oil Festival. Cohn, the former Doobie Brothers' manager turned vintner, was producing olive oil from hundred year old French olive trees planted on his Sonoma property. Inspired by a trip to French olive oil mills, Rodgers and Buck merged into the California Extra Virgin Olive Oil Label. When Buck's trees failed to provide enough oil an Italian source was found, and with it the concept of California-Mediterranean Extra Virgin Blend.

"What we really wanted to be was a Mediterranean food company, because of the diet. We wanted to re-create a California or domestic version of the Mediterranean diet." explained Buck. "Everybody and his brother wanted to be in the California oil business." He continued, "but they needed trees."

In 1999, a merger with Calio Groves provided 100 acres of mission and Manzanillo olive trees in Oroville. The new company also included former California Olive Oil council President Ken Stutz and his Stutz Olive Oil of Berkeley as well as two small Napa boutique companies, Olio Santo and French Laundry chef, Thomas Keller's inspirations.
Most recently, Calio Groves has opened spacious corporate headquarters in Fairfield, including the Calio Groves Tasting Room, featuring an olive oil tasting bar for product sampling, California and European olive bar, and a unique olive-theme gift shop.

 

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